Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Western States Endurance Run - Part 2 (to Devil's Thumb)

My next target was Miller’s Defeat at mile 34.4.  Once the climbs were behind me, I focused on steady, even pacing and tried to pick things up at every opportunity.  I felt like I was doing well here, despite the heat, but didn’t make up as much time as I had hoped.  Again, a very brief stop at Miller’s Defeat doing nothing more than topping off my fluids and trying to quickly find something on the tables that looked even the least bit appealing.  The official race splits show that I left Miller’s Defeat 9 minutes ahead of cutoff.  Not great, but livable.  Again, those blasted air-horns were sounding everywhere I turned. 

I tagged onto the end of a long, spread out line of 4 or 5 runners and headed out on the trail after quickly visiting the cooling stations to get wetted down.  We jogged out of the station at a nice little clip on a wide forest service road with a lovely gentle downhill.  Awesome! 

I was reveling in the feel of making good time when up ahead I saw a car approaching us.  I didn’t think much of it until I saw the car pull to the side of the road, roll down a window and beckon to the lead runner.  She bent to the car window and from several hundred feet back, I could see her body language as she listened attentively for a moment and then her shoulders visibly slumped.  Uh oh!  Not good.  She was turning around and heading back up the hill in my direction.  Shit!  Shit!  SHIT!  Obviously, we had made a wrong turn and this driver had just informed the lead runner that we were off trail. 

I quickly did an about face, frantically calculating numbers in my head and with a litany of curses filling my mind.  I yelled to the runners behind me to turn around and we all dutifully trudged back up the hill.  Leaving Miller’s Defeat, the WS trail takes a left turn off the forest service road.  We had missed it and proceeded almost a full mile down the hill in error.  As we all desperately tried to power hike back up the hill, a truck that was leaving the aid station pulled to a stop in front of me and a volunteer got out of the cab.  He stepped into the middle of the road in front of me.  He had sized up the situation and knew exactly what had happened.  He could see the obvious distress on my face and the tears brimming in my eyes and he just calmly and with a very strong voice said,  “Don’t let this end your race.  Put this behind you and KEEP GOING.  You can do this.”  I nodded my thanks as I really couldn’t bring myself to say anything in reply for fear of completely losing it. 

While still trudging back up the hill, we all heard the long blast of the final cutoff air horn.  The runner to my right nervously asked me if we were going to have our bracelets cut?  I said I didn’t think so as we had officially left the aid station before the cutoff, but there was no getting around it – we were screwed.  It was another several minutes before we finally reached that critical turn that we had missed.  It was barely 100 feet from the aid station.  We were all now, in effect, roughly 7 minutes over the cutoff as we returned to the trail. 

My mind was reeling.  Had I just cost myself my race?  Less than 35 miles completed and I was already going to be cut?  I had already been fighting the cutoffs before this disaster, how was I going to make up for the extra 2 miles I just tacked on to my race??  I tried not to think about it, but my mind was whirling.  I tried to channel that adrenaline into my legs and kept moving with a new sense of urgency.

The next aid station was Dusty Corners at mile 38 and my crew would be there waiting for me.  I had to fly!  I could no longer use my Garmin to calculate time and pace as I still didn’t know accurately how long my “detour” had been.  As a result, the accuracy of the numbers on my Garmin were no good other than to tell me what the time of day was.  Somehow, and I don’t know how, I did it.  I made it into Dusty Corners almost 13 minutes ahead of the cutoff.  Certainly not enough padding to give me any ease, but considering I had thrown in an extra two miles and effectively left the previous aid station 7 minutes after its cutoff I was elated.  My race wasn’t over yet!  I quickly let my crew know what had happened and headed out.

My next big hurdle would be the infamous Devil’s Thumb at mile 48.  Definitely the steepest climb of the entire 100 mile race.  1400+ feet of climb in less than a mile.  I had tackled this one during the training run and knew that from the crossing of Swinging Bridge at the base, it had taken me a solid hour to get to the top, and that was on much fresher legs.  I wanted to focus on giving myself as much padding as possible between now and the base of Devil’s Thumb. 

Gary and his signature Yoohoo and mango colored bikini bottoms (long story). - Photo by Sophie Speidel
It was in these next 10 miles that I fell into step with Gary Knipling.  70+ year old ultra-running legend from Virginia.  I had first met Gary less than a year ago at The Ring (a 70 mile loop of the Massanutten Mtns in VA).  Gary is one of those folks with a life force beyond belief.  Always exuberant, positive, and looking for the next big laugh to enjoy (many of them at his own expense).  He’s a super accomplished ultra-runner and I was so happy to finally catch up to him and get to spend some miles in his company.  
 
Swinging Bridge
In the final mile or two descent to The Swinging Bridge, I took a bit of a lead on Gary on the downhills.  I knew I would need as much time as possible to tackle Devil’s Thumb if I were to have any chance of beating the 7 pm cutoff at the top.  As soon as you cross Swinging Bridge, bam!  The climb begins in earnest.  Switchback after blasted switchback, it goes on forever.  It’s the kind of climb that has your heart rate soaring.  Mine was soon in the danger zone, but I couldn’t let up.  I was in effect, pushing my body to 10K race pace effort in the middle of a 100 miler, and I needed to keep it up for a full hour if I were to reach the top in time.

Elevation profile (travel direction from right to left)

Devil’s Thumb was definitely one of the turning points of my race.  After a half hour of climbing, I was so very done.  I felt light headed and my breath was coming in ragged gasps.  There was no way I was going to be able to continue like this.  As I glanced back down the steep hillside, I could see Gary calmly negotiating the climb as if he were walking in the park.  His hands were gently clasped behind his back, he had an upright posture and calm demeanor and he was making progress so smoothly and with what looked like an easy effort.  Amazing.  I, in contrast, was puffing and heaving and bent over gasping for air feeling on the verge of hurling at every step. 

The switchbacks are periodically decorated with lovely huge boulders just the perfect size for sitting and contemplating the world. At one of these points, I stopped and sat my ass down wallowing in my misery and ready to concede defeat.  I would never make it to the top in time!  I remember my mind wrestling with thoughts to try and motivate myself:  All the friends and family who were following my progress and cheering me on from afar would be so disappointed at my failure...I had never quit an event before, how could I possibly even consider doing so at Western States?…What about all the hours and miles and personal sacrifices I had put into my training?…Think of all the money our family had spent on this vacation to help me achieve this dream…Even the absurd concern over how much stupid race bling we had purchased at the WS store that I would now not be able to wear with pride but would have to shove into a corner of shame in some closet…I didn’t care.  I was done.

Right at this very moment, Gary trudged up to my stopping point and calmly asked me how I was doing.  I told him I was done.  I was dizzy and had no energy whatsoever and there was no way I could make it to the top in time.  He looked briefly up at the sky and then fixed his gaze on me and said “Come on, we’ll do it together.  We’re almost near the top.”  The rational part of my brain knew he was blatantly lying.  We weren’t “near the top”.  I had done this climb just a month ago at the training runs and we were maybe half way there.  Gary refused to believe my analysis and re-affirmed that we were at least two thirds of the way done if not three quarters.  “Come on.  Let’s just keep moving.”  The fuzzy part of my delirious mind so wanted to believe him.  How could I give up by sitting on my ass?  If I was going to DNF, let it at least be with an honest effort.  As Gary calmly turned back up the trail and proceeded on with his maddeningly solid progress, I joined him.  I still didn’t think either of us was going to make it, but I could at least try.  And with that, we continued on. 

The climb still went on forever, my heart still raced, my breath still came in ragged gasps, but I kept Gary’s figure in my vision and followed in his footsteps.  I kept looking at my watch and doing pointless, disheartening math, but I kept moving.  At last we reached a burned out hillside expanse which I gratefully recognized as my personal landmark that we were indeed “near the top”.  It gave me hope and it reinvigorated my steps, but it was still going to be close.

The burn section of the climb that means your near the top.  This pic was taken during the training runs.  There was no cloud cover on race day.

We heard the 10 minute warning air horn blast.  We soldiered on.  We finally, finally, finally crested that beautiful, brutal hill and the aid station loomed into view.  Hallelujah!!!  Thank you, Gary.  I owe you one.
The rock monolith that gave Devil's Thumb its name.
Gary and I were immediately met by volunteers anxious to hustle us in and out as quickly as possible.  You didn’t just have to arrive at the aid station in time, you had to LEAVE the aid station before the cutoff.  I arrived at 6:54 pm.  6 minutes before the cutoff.  I had to get some food and refill my water and get the heck out of there as quickly as possible.  I was adopted by my aid station angel, Karen.  My gait was unsteady, I couldn’t walk a straight line if you paid me, and I had that glassy look that exhaustion brings.  She quickly assessed my condition, grabbed me some resupplies and ushered me out of the aid station to deposit me on a stump some 5 feet the other side of the exit point.  I had made it with 4 minutes to spare!!!  

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